Friday, 24 May 2013

El burrito



Was walking home from the gym, turned the corner and found this fella tied to a post. Scared the heck out of me 'cause it was the last thing I expected to see on my walk back home. I only see burros in the morning when they are being ridden by little boys who are searching the for glass and cans (I think). It's very sad to presence and I am always left wondering what I could do to help these boys. I also wonder what the government is doing. Surely they can see these boys on their way to work every morning. They are everywhere, especially in the summer (warmer) days. Is there an agency dealing with these kids, trying to see if they can get them to school or find work for their parents? Where do these kids end up later in life? Sadly, I don't think I will ever find answers to these questions.

Another thing that keeps me thinking as it relates to burros is how there are none in Puerto Rico but we mention them alot in Christmas songs. I always sing "Los Burritos Sabaneros" to Maya when we see a burro in the morning and it's made me think alot about how all of our Christmas songs are tied to the region that I am living in now. I would never have thought to be living in the place that is, literally, (and as the song says) "camino a Belen" (on the pathway to Bethlehem).

However, I've never seen one in middle of the afternoon let alone by himself right in the middle of a neighborhood. He was NOT happy I was taking a picture of him, either.

Thursday, 23 May 2013

Let's talk local politics

This interesting article shows a glimpse of what Jordan is struggling with as it relates to including minority groups (who are now almost the majority) in their social, political and economic fabric. The writer notes: "The way Jordanians imagine their national collective identity must evolve from tolerance to acceptance and from diversity to true inclusion." Sound familiar to anyone back home?

http://www.opendemocracy.net/munir-atalla/half-capacity-jordan-whose-stories-do-we-need


Half-capacity Jordan: whose stories do we need?

The way Jordanians imagine their national collective identity must evolve from tolerance to acceptance and from diversity to true inclusion.
Since its independence in 1946, Jordan has become the home to hundreds of refugee, immigrant, and ex-patriot populations. In 1948, a wave of Palestinian refugees entered Jordan.  Since then Armenians, Bedouins, Kurds, Sri Lankans, Egyptians, Filipinos, Iraqis, Saudis, more Palestinians, Koreans, Lebanese, and Syrians have moved to Amman.
Among these immigrants were Christians, Muslims, and Jews.  There were doctors and beggars, men, women, and children.  One needs to look no further than Google’s new time-lapse project to see the capital city Amman sprawl in all directions since 1984. Yet despite its soaring population, very few immigrants have come to call Amman, home.
Some come in search of work.  Others migrate for the temperate climate. Many flee violence in their countries of origin. Every refugee has a story to contribute, but whose stories does the Jordanian collective imagination value?
There are many conflicting theories when it comes to dealing with diversity and inclusion in the formation of a national narrative. While some advocate a “melting pot” where ethnicity melts away, others prefer the idea of a “salad bowl” where individual cultures retain their integrity but coexist and even thrive.  Jordan has been employing neither of the above strategies, and in doing so has neglected its most valuable resource.  Humans move to new communities to exchange ideas and to be closer to one another.  In Amman, cultural exchange is happening despite little to no encouragement on behalf of the government.  We are operating at half-capacity.

Hashemite tolerance

Jordan was built on the ideals of acceptance and inclusion.  The Hashemites have proven themselves tolerant rulers.  King Abdullah II has worked these principals throughout his reign.  In 2004, he released a memo after consulting with several of the most highly revered figures in the Muslim world titled “The Amman Message”.  In it, he asserted that, “Islam honours every human being, regardless of his colour, race or religion.”
Christian communities across the country have historically flourished and continue to do so - but many of those have been Christian Jordanians, tribesmen who hold one of the quintessentially Jordanian, immediately identifiable last names. Circassians have been rewarded for their loyalty by serving as Royal Guards since the inception of the Monarchy.  But these are not the only groups that today make up the Hashemite Kingdom.
The Jordanian government has launched several nationalistic campaigns over the years.  Most memorable of the lot is the “Jordan First” campaign, a slogan that still sits on the tongues of many Jordanians.  There was also the Kulluna Al Urdun, “All of us are Jordan” campaign launched in the wake of the Amman hotel bombings in 2005.
Although these campaigns did wonders for the nationalist paraphernalia market, it has left many people forgotten.  Today, marginalized groups like Egyptians and South Asian workers typically inhabit and access homogenous restaurants, neighbourhoods, and stores.  Palestinians who have lived here for generations still cling to their roots because millions are strewn about the country in refugee camps.  There are entire populations that live in fear of police harassment or maltreatment.  It would come as no surprise to most Ammanites that Egyptian labourers are often treated with contempt, and have trouble bringing their spouses and children to the country.  Voting systems facilitate tribal nepotism and are specifically designed to ensure that Palestinians have limited representation in Parliament. 
Many of Jordan’s minorities are being pushed to the margins by nationalists who have a narrow definition of what a “pure” Jordanian is and resent minority groups for digging into the state’s already scarce resources.  They resent the fact that the vast majority of foreign aid is going to refugees while they struggle to afford food and water.

Looking for a new type of nation state 

The government has traditionally appealed to Jordanian tribes for its support base.  While this was a good strategy when the tribes were loyal and the numbers were in their favour, the government would do well to foster loyalty amongst minoritized groups who are quickly becoming the vast majority.  Once everyone has a stake in creating a viable, prosperous Jordan, the economy will pick up as it did after the first surge of Palestinian refugees from Kuwait in 1990.  Until then, the “pure” Jordanians should have to start on equal footing with the entire society, and stop receiving handouts from the state.
While the government has maintained the appearance of diversity and tolerance, it has simultaneously failed to snuff policies that enforce Jordanian tribal supremacy like job and educational favouritism and lopsided election laws.
At first glance, a Sri Lankan man, a Syrian refugee longing to go home, and a third-generation Palestinian who is practically Jordanian do not have much in common.  What unites them is a narrative of leaving home.  Under the current nation-state model of control, a government will always favour its “own” people.  Maybe now is the time for the Arab world to start looking into new forms of government that will leave fewer people hungry and dejected.  If Jordan is a place only for Jordanians, civic strife will be its inevitable future.
In Syria, violence has stoked sectarian divides.  The Arab world has not been ideologically united in years.  Now is the time for Jordan to step up and be a beacon for the rest of the Arab world to follow.  The way Jordanians imagine their national collective identity must evolve from tolerance to acceptance and from diversity to true inclusion.  The monarchy must cease to wear the mask of progressiveness and adopt a zero-tolerance policy for racism and favouritism. 
The rest of the immediate region is in shambles.  Palestine is being rubbed off of the map.  Lebanon is still working through its fundamental identity crisis.  Syria has been obliterated. Egypt is still early in the process of reconstruction.  Iraq has been all but lost.  Only Jordan soldiers on.  Today, Amman is the sieve that is gleaning bits and pieces of neighbouring cultures and resuscitating them.  Jordan must ride the surge of incoming cultural material and lead the Arab world into new frontiers.

Friday, 10 May 2013

Arabic Food


Hummus, tabuleh, sharwma, bread, raita, falafel... food I had never really eaten much of before coming to Jordan.  It's heavy, like Puerto Rican food, but the base of it is totally different. Where we use plantain and pork for almost everything, they use chickpeas, yogurt and lamb. I have to admit that I didn't like it much at first. But now, it's grown on me. Moussa took me to this place in Jabal Hussein. It's like the Arabic version of La Bombonera in Old San Juan. It was affordable and delicious food. I wasn't able to have dinner afterwards, though. Very heavy stuff! But yummy!

Thursday, 25 April 2013

The Power of Love

I went to the Jordan Ministry of Labor full of anger/rage at some bureaucratic decision I had just learned of and went there to "demand some answers!". After 9 months of back and forth, I was livid! (Those who know my temper can tell you that I'm no fun to be around when I'm like this). I planned to use all my experience in advocacy and civic rights right then and there and hold people accountable! I first went to a woman who had been my contact there to ask who the manager was. She is a veiled Jordanian who knows very little English. I rely on Moussa to translate. She saw how upset I was (I guess because of my furrowed brow and pursed lips) and she asked me to extend my hand. This is what she wrote. My heart melted, anger left my body, love filled inside instead. The issue was not resolved the way I wanted but at that point, who cared?

Monday, 15 April 2013

King Abdullah of Jordan



This is a video of King Abdullah speaking to the Parliament about democracy in the country. It's in Arabic (sorry) - not that I understand any of it myself- but the images are very powerful. #proudtobeinJordan #mydaughterwasbornhereduringthearabspring

Monday, 8 April 2013

Zait and Zatar


This grocery store is right next to the Starbucks. This is where we get basic provisions (milk, bread, fruits and vegetables). We go to 3 other larger supermarkets for our more substantive groceries (Miles, Cosmo, Spinneys). We can't go to just one because often times there is a product that we need that is only sold in one of the supermarket and you can't find in any of the others. It's a bit annoying but its not that bad. Anyway, this one that is close to our home is Zait and Zatar which means Oil and Thyme, I think. We go every afternoon and all the employees know Maya and love to say hi. Here are the butchers (there are about 5 of them). Once, when we came back from vacation, they all huddled together in back of the counter greeting Maya with great enthusiasm. I only wish I had a camera then! 

Starbucks in Swefiyeh


Yes, I know its a simple Starbucks but its the only cafe that is close to our house (only a couple of blocks down the street) and I have been walking Maya to this Starbucks every morning since she was born. The employees there have literally seen her almost every day since the day I brought her back from the hospital. Mohammed is one of the baristas who greets Maya when she enters the store. At one point, they suggested we have a picture of Maya on the community board as their "Preferred Client"! This Starbucks has given me, personally, a sense of continuity as I have been drinking the same coffee (decaf non fat no whip mocha) for about 10 years. I only wish they had low fat variety in their selection (the stuff they have is really bad!). Other than that, it's really a meeting place in our neighborhood. Folks have meetings there as there is lots of sitting space and at night it becomes the hip hang out place for university students. Go figure! 

Amo Bader



Amo means "uncle" in Arabic. And Bader is the name of the Egyptian who works as the maintenance person in our building. Bader knows no English and we barely get by when speaking to him but he helps us with ensuring that we have timely refills of deisel so that we have heat and hot water in the apartment and also does odd jobs like taking out the trash, cleaning the garden and putting in light bulbs. Maya has really taken to Bader. She does this snorting sound when she sees him because he showed her how to do it. He swings her by the legs (as seen in the picture) and plays peek-a-boo with her all the time. The have loads of fun together. Sadly, he is leaving the building next week for another job. Maya will miss him alot. 

Wednesday, 13 February 2013

Abu Issa


This is Moussa, or Abu Issa (Abu, meaning "father of" and Issa is the name of his first born boy), is more than our driver (yes, we have a driver). He is, as he himself puts it, family. Moussa has been working with us for over a year now and, to me, he is like an uncle and to Maya like a grandfather. She  really enjoys being around him and he has so much fun with her.


Abu Issa speaks to Maya in Arabic and she responds to whatever he says, whether it's "where are your eyes" (she points to her eyes) or "Allah be with you" (she dutifully extends her hand).


Moussa has taught me alot about Islam. Every day he tells me a different story from the Qor'an as an analogy to something that is going on either in his life or mine. We share stories about life, family, politics and Jordan. He helps me solve problems with his many connections (and cousins) in different places. More importantly, he genuinely cares about our family and is there for us. We are so fortunate to have him in our lives. 

Sidewalks


I am not a city planner but I have enough common sense to know how important sidewalks are to making a city more pedestrian friendly. Having lived in Boston so many years spoiled me rotten. Here, in Amman, one of the things I would have liked to have seen more of is sidewalks that you can actually walk on. As you can see, people plant trees right on the sidewalks so it kinda defeats the purpose of having the sidewalk in the first place. It forces you to walk on the street and the driving here is, well, let's just say it's deterred me from driving myself around. It's a pity because the city is so magical, in my opinion and if it just were a bit more pedestrian friendly, people could enjoy its enchantments so much more. 

Tuesday, 12 February 2013

Dr. Ibrahim Mashini


This is the doctor who delivered Maya. His name is Ibrahim Mashini. The very BEST OB/GYN I have ever met. So caring, nurturing, professional and confident in his profession. He took care of me throughout my pregnancy with wonderful patience and understanding and helped me deliver my beautiful baby. Shukran kateer, Dr. Ibrahim! xxxx


The Farah



This is Farah Hospital, where Maya was born. Affordable, quality health care should be like this for everywhere and for everyone. The Farah Hospital is for women who are expecting children and it is the most comfortable, professional and nurturing hospital I have been to anywhere (sorry Boston!). The quality of care rivals anywhere in the world and the place looks like a 5 star hotel. I stayed here 4 nights when I delivered Maya just so I could rest and get ready for motherhood. The nurses helped me take care of Maya while I was there. The service (nurses, doctors, staff, etc) is of a 5 star hotel as well. The price is a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of what you would pay in the US for the same (or better) service.






Saturday, 9 February 2013

Housing Bank Park


This is the Housing Bank Park, where I take Maya on sunny days during the winter and when it's not too hot in the summer. It's a 5 minute car ride from our home. The park is in Abdoun, which is the neighborhood next to ours. I love it because it is frequented by both Jordanians and foreigners so it's really a mix of people. As you can see, it's a very small park, with no trees but it's nice because it's one of the very few parks in the entire city of Amman so it gives Maya an opportunity to run around. One side has swings and jungle-gym (above) and the other side has grass to run around in (below). It's given me a new appreciation for parks and open space back home and in Boston. I wish folks had more places to take their children here. I think it would make a world of a difference. Not having many parks is one of the very few downsides to Amman.


Thursday, 7 February 2013

B@C in Abdoun


For me, this is my equivalent to El Oriental de Cuba but in Amman. In other words, my hang out place. It's called B@C in Abdoun. B@C stands for Books @ Cafe and Abdoun is an affluent neighborhood of Amman. It's a bookstore and cafe with really nice organic, healthy food.  The environment and ambiance is really nice. The owners are really wonderful. One of the owners is also the owner of the original Books @ Cafe in the first circle. (Amman's reference points are in terms of circles or what in Boston would be roundabouts or rotary. There are 7, I believe or is it 8? I n any case, the 1st circle is in the oldest part of town and closest to the city center. The larger the numbers, the farther you go from the city center. Tony, Maya and I live close to the 6th circle).  In any event, one of the owners is a Jordanian gay rights activist. You wouldn't believe his extraordinary stories of what he has had to go through as a gay business owner in Amman. Fortunately, he has been extremely successful with both places.

I go here to write, think, meet up with folks or just plain read. There is an upstairs section (kind of like a mezzanine) where I sit in a corner and have a nice cup of coffee. 

Fuad


This is the entrance to the hair salon I go to about twice a week. It's called Muneer and my friend Ghalia Alul introduced me to the place. Why do I go twice a week? Cause I can get my hair conditioned and blow dried for USD $10! (vs. $35 in Boston) and get a manicure and pedicure for USD $11 (vs. about $30 in Boston) When I have to do a color, I get a color, highlights, cut, blow dry and a special conditioning treatment for $100 (vs. about $300 in Boston and $350 in Australia!) AND it's about a 5 minute drive from my house. 


And THIS is my wonderful, kind, talented hairdresser Fuad, who I just ADORE! He knows very little English and only speaks to me in Arabic. So I have learned more Arabic from him then from anyone else in Amman! He treats me like a queen, bringing me tea with mint as soon as I come in and just making me look and feel fabulous by the time I leave. He takes my appointments (even last minute ones) without hassle and is just a really nice guy. He loves Maya and gave her a cute present for her birthday and bought me flowers for mine! He's all of 25, I think, and will be married very soon. He's a wonderful guy.

Omran Naeb Maata St.



Many of my friends and family have been asking for me to start my blog again. So here I go at it one more time. Hopefully, it will stick this time.

So...some visuals! This is the street where we live in Amman. The neighborhood is called Sweifiyeh and its in West Amman. The west side of Amman is where the foreigners (like us) and the wealthier people of Amman live. The East side of Amman is where the poorer sections are.

We live on the right hand side of the street that you see in the picture. The street is Omran Naeb Maata Street. (Yep, say that several times fast!) We live just a few houses down from where that jeep is. The church you see is a Syrian Orthodox Church and the church bells ring every Sunday and sound really beautiful. Down the road from the church is...ta da! a Starbucks! Also, Zait & Zatar which is our local supermarket. Next door to that is Rawan, our local pastry shop and a bit down the road is Meat Master, our local butcher.

Since Maya was born, she has been walking down this street almost every day to each of these shops. Today, when she comes in, all the employees of Starbucks, Rawan, Zait & Zatar know her by name and call out to her, pick her up, and play with her. There is even a guy who works in front of these stores as a valet parking and he has conversations with Maya all the time and gives her lollipops, which I quickly hide from her. The Rawan guys giver her tiny cones of ice cream! When she is not with me, all these folks ask for her. I just learned today that the employees of Starbucks just call me Im Maya (mother of Maya) probably cause they have no clue what my name is.  On a side note: Out of respect, all the taxi drivers that we use (we are regulars with a few taxi drivers) refer to Tony as Abu Maya (father of Maya). (They insistently call me Joviana but that is another story).

Anyway, this is our neighborhood and we love it. We have nice long walks in the afternoons when we can as a family.